Chiang Mai is the gateway to Northern Thailand.
With a population of over 170,000, Chiang Mai
is Thailand's second-largest city after Bangkok.
Located on a plain surrounded by mountains,
surrounded by lush countryside, and with a cosmopolitan
air and a significant expat population, it is
much greener and quieter than the capital, factors
which have led many from Bangkok to settle permanently
in this "Rose of the North".
Founded in 1296 AD, the culturally rich city
of Chiang Mai is the longest continuously inhabited
settlement from the ancient days of Siam. Located
amidst the rolling foot hills of the Himalayan
Mountains some 800 km north of Bangkok, it could
only be reached by an arduous river journey
or an elephant back trip until the 1920's, isolation
which has helped keep Chiang Mai's distinctive
charm intact to this day.
Chiang Mai's historical centre is the walled
city (chiang in Thai, hence Chiang Mai - "New
Walled City"). Sections of the wall remain
at the gates and corners, but of the rest only
the moat remains.
Inside Chiang Mai's remaining city walls are
more than 30 temples dating back to the founding
of the principality, in a combination of Burmese,
Sri Lankan and Lanna Thai styles, decorated
with beautiful wood carvings, Naga staircases,
leonine and angelic guardians, gilded umbrellas
and pagodas laced with gold filigree. The most
famous is Doi Suthep, which overlooks the city
from a 1,050 m (3,500 ft) mountain top 13 km
away.
Modern-day Chiang Mai has expanded in all directions,
but particularly to the east towards the Ping
River (Mae Nam Ping), where Thanon Chang Klan,
the famous Night Bazaar and the bulk of Chiang
Mai's hotels and guesthouses are located. The
locals say you've not experienced Chiang Mai
until you've seen the view from Doi Suthep,
eaten a bowl of kao soi, and purchased an umbrella
from Bo Sang.
How to get here
By plane
Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX) handles
both domestic and regional international flights.
The route from Bangkok is one of the busiest
in the country (Thai Airways flies daily almost
every hour, with additional flights in the peak
tourist season). Other airlines operating direct
services from/to Chiang Mai include:
Air Asia - from/to Bangkok;
also Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia)
Air Mandalay - from/to Myanmar
Bangkok Airways - to Ko Samui
(flights from Ko Samui are indirect) and from/to
Sukhothai; also Jinghong (China)
China Airlines - from/to Kaohsiung,
Taiwan
Hong Kong Express - from/to
Hong Kong
Lao Aviation - from/to Laos
Nok Air - from/to Bangkok &
Udon Thani
One-Two-Go (part of Orient Thai
Airlines ) from/to Bangkok
Silk Air - from/to Singapore
Thai Airways - from/to Bangkok
and Mae Hong Son; also Kunming (China); in
addition, flights from and/or to Phuket &
possibly Nan may also be available seasonally
Tiger Airways - from/to Singapore
International departure hall at Chiang Mai
AirportThe airport is some 3 km south-west
of the city centre, only 10-15 minutes away
by car. Legal airport taxis charge a flat
140 baht for up to 5 passengers anywhere in
the city; if you take a metered taxi the price
will be under 100 baht. The taxis operate
from the exit at the north end of the terminal
- after baggage claim and/or customs, walk
into the reception hall and turn left. Alternatively,
take bus #4 to the city center for 15 baht,
or charter a tuk-tuk or songthaew for 50-60
baht. Most hotels and guesthouses offer cheap
or free pick-up/drop-off services.
By bus
Buses to Chiang Mai leave from Bangkok's Northern
Bus Terminal (Moh Chit). The cheapest, non-aircon,
stop-everywhere government buses take around
12 hours; non-stop VIP 24-seaters manage the
trip in 9 hours on a good day. Chiang Mai also
has good bus connections to practically everywhere
in the North, and major destinations/hubs in
the North-East (Issan); there's even a direct
service to Pattaya and Rayong in the East.
By train
Various rapid, express and sleeper services
leave from Bangkok's Hualamphong station, taking
11+ hours for the trip. The day trains have
only second and third class, with no sleeper
berths. Sprinter trains are entirely second
class air-con, also with no sleeping berths,
and are the only ones which cannot transport
bicycles.
The overnight trains - especially air-con and
non-aircon second class sleepers - are very
popular, safe, comfortable and fun; those who
do not wish to share crowded "bathroom"
facilities can book a private first class two-berth
cabin (the attendant cleans the first class
bathrooms frequently). In second class sleepers,
the lower berth is more expensive than, but
also wider than, the upper berth.
Tickets can be purchased up to 60 days in advance;
advance booking is advisable, especially between
November and March - see SRT timetables and
prices.