Ko Samui ( often called just Samui is an island
in the Gulf of Thailand, some 700km south of
Bangkok and
about 80km from the eastern coastline of southern
Thailand.
Ko Samui is Thailand's second largest island
(229km. - only Phuket
covers a greater area) and all in all a fairly
big place. The most popular and commercialised
beaches are Chaweng and Lamai, while the northern
beaches and their adjacent villages of Mae Nam,
Bophut, Bang Ruk (Big Buddha) and Choeng Mon
are more peaceful choices, and the west coast
beaches are still (comparatively) quiet.
An island of great natural beauty and variety,
Samui is home to about 40,000 full-time inhabitants,
90% of whom are Buddhist. The palm fringed shoreline
and coconut and fruit cultivation of the coastal
lowlands rise to a central granite massive, the
slopes of which are cloaked in virgin rainforest.
At 247km. Samui is the largest island in an
archipelago of over 80 (mostly uninhabited)
islands which form the Ang Thong National Marine
Park, a kayaking and snorkeling paradise. At
25km long and 21km wide, Samui is big enough
for serious exploration by the adventurous and
fit, but can be circumnavigated in just a couple
of hours by motorbike or car.
Tourism has long since overtaken coconut farming
and fishing as the main sources of income. The
latter are still practiced though to a lesser
extent and the pleasant aroma of charring coconuts
can still be smelled on many parts of the island.
Many of the fish on local restaurant and hotel
dining room tables come from the surrounding
Gulf of Thailands warm waters, although
increasing amounts are imported from elsewhere
as demand outstrips supply.
Clockwise from Nathon on the west coast, the
main beaches are:
Nathon - Samui's port and administrative
center, but with little to attract the tourist
Mae Nam - a quiet and beautiful
beach on the northern coast
Bophut - known for its Fisherman's
Village, laid-back but growing fast
Bang Ruk - at the northeastern
tip, home of the Big Buddha
Choeng Mon - quiet North shore
beach
Chaweng - the largest and most-developed
beach, with a curious mix of luxury hotels
and backpacker guesthouses and a hopping nightlife
Lamai - Samui's "second"
beach south of Chaweng, more backpackery than
Chaweng
South Coast - the small beaches
of Ban Hua Thanon, Na Khai, Laem Set, Bang
Kao and Thong Krut
How to get here
By plane
Ko Samui Airport (USM) is a private airport
originally built by Bangkok Airways, which is
still the main operator and the only airline
with services to Ko Samui from Thailand. They
have near-hourly departures to/from Bangkok;
tickets are expensive by Thai standards, but
advance bookings can be tolerable (around 2000B),
while a walk-in booking may be twice as much.
There are also daily flights to/from Phuket
for 2200 baht, U-Tapao, and Singapore; four
direct flights a week from Chiang Mai (but no
direct flights in the opposite direction); and
twice weekly flights to/from Hong Kong.
In addition to Bangkok Air, Ko Samui is served
by Berjaya Air from Kuala Lumpur and Firefly
from Penang, both in Malaysia.
Visa-on-Arrival and Visa-Free entry is available
at Samui Airport for some nationalities - see
Thailand for more information.
Ground transportation from the airport is readily
available. A seat in a minibus for the 20-minute
ride to Chaweng costing 100 baht/person; a faster
taxi will cost 150-300 baht. Be sure to negotiate
the rate to your destination before you get
into the taxi since many drivers refuse to use
their meters.
A cheaper but less convenient option is to
fly to Surat Thani or Chumpon and connect by
road and then ferry.
By boat
Numerous ferry services direct from mainland
Surat Thani include an express boat (3 departures
daily, taking around 3 hours and costing 150
baht) and slow night boats (taking 6-7 hours).
Call operator Songserm Travel (252 9654 in Bangkok)
for the latest schedules, which vary according
to the season.
There are also regular speedboats and ferries
to Ko Pha Ngan
and Ko Tao.
Lomprayah offers a combined bus/high speed
catamaran ferry service from Bangkok to Ko Samui
which takes about 11 hours and costs around
850 baht (1000 baht in the opposite direction).
The bus pauses in Hua Hin and then stops at
Chumphon where it connects with the ferry, which
calls at Ko Nang Yuan, Ko Tao and Ko Pha Ngan
on its way to Ko Samui. The buses and ferry
are air-con and very comfortable.
From Surat Thani train station, combined bus/ferry
services to Ko Samui cost 200-300 baht - some
entail a 60 minute bus ride followed by a 90
minute ferry crossing, others a 30 minute bus
ride but longer on the ferry. Tickets are sold
by numerous agents who meet each train.
Get Around
As on many islands in Thailand, small motorbikes
are available for rental. Compared to other
nearby islands, Samui's road systems is very
developed and there are plenty of taxis cruising
about, although it's a challenge to get them
to use their meters.
Pickup trucks (songthaews) also serve as group
taxis. Hail one on any major road with a wave
or yell, negotiate a fare, and sit down on the
bench in the back.